Installing Paul Yaffe 12"bars

One tip to pass along. I used to be an electrician and we used this. You can put a shop vac over the end of the bar to pull a string through. Then repulled a heavy cord through with the string. I was afraid the string might not be strong enough.
 
Hello all. I am looking at installing the Paul Yaffe 12" Monkey bars as well on my 2015 FLHXS. I installed 16" apes on my 2011 Heritage, so I kind of know a little about what to expect. Now with the fairing and TBW involved, I know it's all different. If anyone could share somw wisdom that would be great. I was reading the service manual, and if Im correct it sounds like the INNER fairing has to be removed as well as the outer? Also, other posts suggest just the need for wiring extentions no cables. When they say re-route the cables how are they routed? and finally, will the Namz plug and play wiring extentions work, and do I need the TBW extentions as well? Any input would help. Thx.
 
Hello all. I am looking at installing the Paul Yaffe 12" Monkey bars as well on my 2015 FLHXS. I installed 16" apes on my 2011 Heritage, so I kind of know a little about what to expect. Now with the fairing and TBW involved, I know it's all different. If anyone could share somw wisdom that would be great. I was reading the service manual, and if Im correct it sounds like the INNER fairing has to be removed as well as the outer? Also, other posts suggest just the need for wiring extentions no cables. When they say re-route the cables how are they routed? and finally, will the Namz plug and play wiring extentions work, and do I need the TBW extentions as well? Any input would help. Thx.

I have a few posts (Search for 12" Yaffe ) that explain the 12" YMB install..... no need to remove the inner faring.. you can pull it up and forward to gain access to the 4 allen head bolts on the clamps.

No need for TBW extensions... its good for like 20" bars.. no joke... the molex connector needs to be unpinned to route the wires thru the bars.

NAMZ extensions in the 8" variety are perfect.... nothing else needed.

The Hyd lines for the brake and clutch work... a slight reroute may be in order and no disconnecting is needed... there is a holder on the right side of the neck that holds the hyd lines... pull the line from it to gain some slack. if you feel the need to reoute the brake line as I did... pull the lever off and feed the entire unit down below the triple and and feed it up the way you see fit.. it's not hard at all....
 
Thx for the info. So I really only need to tip the inner fairing forward( away from the tank) to access the clamp no wires? Also the molex thing intimidates me as I have no experience with that. I was reading on the other posts that I could get the CVO TBW harness that has a smaller plug at the end, so I could pull it through without having to deal with the pins? Will that plug back in to my fairing if the end is different? Is that right? It sounds like fishing these wires is a pain, but I think I can handle it just looking for any clues on making it easier. Dealer wants 1000.00 to to this, Im thinking i could do it and save a ton. Thx again.
 
Installing Paul Yaffe 12"bars

Installing Paul Yaffe 12"bars

CVO TBW wires are just like the regular version except they don't have an extra plug inline that can pull loose. End plug is the same and will fit.

I did mine this week. Not too bad just take your time. Definitely not worth $1000 that's why I did mine
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So I would still have to do the molex thing?

I believe so.. the only difference is no 'middle' plug to accidentally pull apart during the install...

Here are a few vids on the Molex connectors.... it's not hard... and you DON'T need the $20 tool.... I used a stainless steel dental pic that I straightened out....

 
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Do I have to do this for all the wiring or just the tbw? Can I fish the others with the ends on?
 
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Do I have to do this for all the wiring or just the tbw? Can I fish the others with the ends on?

This is ONLY for the TBW... the hand control wiring connectors are small and fit thru the bars. ( small CANBUS connectors )

the TBW has a small green connector mid-way up the harness... tape this connector TIGHT before you pull thru the bars.. you don't want it coming apart inside the bars when pulling and tugging....
 
Got it. Thx Spazz and everyone else. I just got this ride, has no miles, and I'm going to tear down! A little nervous, but I think I can do it. Probably going ask 100 more questions before I'm done. Thx all..
 
Got it. Thx Spazz and everyone else. I just got this ride, has no miles, and I'm going to tear down! A little nervous, but I think I can do it. Probably going ask 100 more questions before I'm done. Thx all..

Nothing wrong with asking... we are here to help each other out....:cool:
 
Installing Paul Yaffe 12"bars

Installing Paul Yaffe 12"bars

Do I have to do this for all the wiring or just the tbw? Can I fish the others with the ends on?

You have to remove the molex connectors from all the wire bundles. Once you get the hang of it it's not hard. I used a large paper clip. Worked great

Write down the color coding and take pictures before taking them apart


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You have to remove the molex connectors from all the wire bundles. Once you get the hang of it it's not hard. I used a large paper clip. Worked great

Write down the color coding and take pictures before taking them apart


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The only molex conector on a 15 is the TBW... the hand controls are very small CANBUS connectors and no need to remove them...they fit thru the bars

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The only molex conector on a 15 is the TBW... the hand controls are very small CANBUS connectors and no need to remove them...they fit thru the bars

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Did not know that about the 15s. Thanks


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I noticed in the pic of the service manual that the right hand control plug looks like a wider long plug as opposed to the left hand plug. Is that just a general drawing? Based on what your saying they should both fit thru the bars. Thx.
 


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