Factory 47 Assault Bars..

[Helomech74]

It's not the step at the riser.. it's the 1.5" after that before it bends up... you'll see... all clearancing cannot be seen when assembled, so don't sweat it... it's easy to do and again... unseen

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Well if it requires me to clearance the inner fairing I'll send them back as I'm not will to modify it even if it's unseen. Speaking to the guys at Factory 47 they made it clear that no clearancing would be required, so it looks like I'll have to wait and see.

 

[Spazz]

Well if it requires me to clearance the inner fairing I'll send them back as I'm not will to modify it even if it's unseen. Speaking to the guys at Factory 47 they made it clear that no clearancing would be required, so it looks like I'll have to wait and see.

Well.. you'll just have to wait and see. I would suggest you install them bare ( before you run internal wiring) to ensure they fit without clearancing to be on the safe side

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[Helomech74]

Well.. you'll just have to wait and see. I would suggest you install them bare ( before you run internal wiring) to ensure they fit without clearancing to be on the safe side

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Just got off the phone with them and they explained a little more why there is no modifications to the fairing needed. The bar is actually a 3 step bar, it goes from 1" at the clamp area, to 1 1/4" at the bend and as soon as it clears the fairing it steps to 1.5" He said you can't even see the 1 1/4" area since it's right at the bend of the bar and it sits up close to the fairing. Either way, I'll still install them bare to verify clearances.

 

[Spazz]

Just got off the phone with them and they explained a little more why there is no modifications to the fairing needed. The bar is actually a 3 step bar, it goes from 1" at the clamp area, to 1 1/4" at the bend and as soon as it clears the fairing it steps to 1.5" He said you can't even see the 1 1/4" area since it's right at the bend of the bar and it sits up close to the fairing. Either way, I'll still install them bare to verify clearances.

Now that makes sense.... the Torch bars were stepped from 1" to 1.5" ... you should be good...

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[brick]

I chose these because they are wide. Put a set of Yaffe bars on a roadglide last week, they are nice but I am 6' 2" and they felt narrow.

 

[N2DEEP]

Thank you brick, bike looks good with them bars. If you don't mind taking one more picture from the back of the bike looking forwards. Just trying to get a good reference for how wide these bars are.

 

[brick]

It that what your after? Hope it helps. You won't regret the decision. They are quality, easy to pull wires and the fit is perfect.

 

[Helomech74]

Those bars look perfect. Glad I chose the 12", mine will be black though. From the back the bars look like they are super wide, but from the front not so much. I wanted these bars because of the width (39") compared to the Yaffe or Vindikta bars are 35-36"

 

[Helomech74]

Just finished installing mine, took about 4 hours and the fit and finish was perfect. No trimming of the fairing or alterations to the bike required. I used the NAMZ plug and play switch housing harnesses (not the extensions) and the factory FBW harness was plenty long enough. The brake and clutch hydraulic lines were just barely long enough to work with these bars (12"), I'll probably swap the hydraulic lines out this winter to ones that are about +4-6" length to give me more options down the road.

 

[w1smc]

Yes, I'm going with the 12" also .....

They look great too .....

Helo ..... It states on their website for the 12" bars .... "Need cables extended +4 and Need control wire kit #1005 and throttle by wire kit #1006" ....

Did you order these also?

 

[Helomech74]

Yes, I'm going with the 12" also .....

They look great too .....

Helo ..... It states on their website for the 12" bars .... "Need cables extended +4 and Need control wire kit #1005 and throttle by wire kit #1006" ....

Did you order these also?

No need to extend the cables if you don't want to buy them as there is enough slack after re-routing the lines a little, but I'll probably do the cables this winter as a project just to give a little more slack. They aren't tight or anything, but you have to run them just right to make them work (the brake side specifically). As for the wiring, I bought the NAMZ plug and play switch harnesses: https://www.namzcustomcycleproducts.com/products/2014_up_fl_switch_harness.html

On 2016 bikes there's no need for the throttle by wire extension either, plenty of slack. No need to de-pin that connector to run it in the bars either, it has the smaller plug compared to the 14-15 bikes.

 

[w1smc]

No need to extend the cables if you don't want to buy them as there is enough slack after re-routing the lines a little, but I'll probably do the cables this winter as a project just to give a little more slack. They aren't tight or anything, but you have to run them just right to make them work (the brake side specifically). As for the wiring, I bought the NAMZ plug and play switch harnesses: https://www.namzcustomcycleproducts.com/products/2014_up_fl_switch_harness.html

On 2016 bikes there's no need for the throttle by wire extension either, plenty of slack. No need to de-pin that connector to run it in the bars either, it has the smaller plug compared to the 14-15 bikes.

Great ..... thanks so much for the info ......

 

[MikeCT_78]

How hard is the install on these, i'm pretty much a novice when it comes to wrenching on a bike. I can start it, tune the radio and fill it with gas. After that i'm pretty much all thumbs.

 

[Helomech74]

How hard is the install on these, i'm pretty much a novice when it comes to wrenching on a bike. I can start it, tune the radio and fill it with gas. After that i'm pretty much all thumbs.

If you buy the wiring extensions or the plug and play harnesses I linked above and have some basic hand tools (Torx bits, hex bits and a supply of sockets and ratchets) it's really not all that difficult. There are plenty of how to videos out there that can help you if you have no clue how to even start. I'd suggest a service manual as well. The most "difficult" part was fishing the wires through the bars, but even that's not really that difficult, just need to take your time and have some patience with it.

I removed my gas tank and front fender to reduce the risk of damaging the paint on them. I didn't remove the entire fairing though, just the outer cover and then tilted it forward to give me access to the riser clamp.

 

[Patterndaytraveler]

No need to extend the cables if you don't want to buy them as there is enough slack after re-routing the lines a little, but I'll probably do the cables this winter as a project just to give a little more slack. They aren't tight or anything, but you have to run them just right to make them work (the brake side specifically). As for the wiring, I bought the NAMZ plug and play switch harnesses: https://www.namzcustomcycleproducts.com/products/2014_up_fl_switch_harness.html

On 2016 bikes there's no need for the throttle by wire extension either, plenty of slack. No need to de-pin that connector to run it in the bars either, it has the smaller plug compared to the 14-15 bikes.

It looks like NAMZ made some changes. Any chance you could post an updated link?

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[turtle.sc1]

I hope this works, first time. It was an easy installation.

Just curious....can you see out of the stock mirrors at all with the 12" bars? I really don't want to use mirrors on the bars....

 

[DRedman45]

You can't see anything from the batwing mirrors with the 12"...you'll need 14's at a minimum