cylinder head temp vs. oil temp

Fallguy

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Jun 15, 2015
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So I have been tinkering around with my SG's exhaust and a/c and fuel a bit and am ok for now there but have the rear cylinder cut-out at a light after about 10 seconds of idling. I have been researching cooling options passionately for the past week or so and got to talk to a couple folks this morning on a 250 mile ride. My home HD Dealer said that according to my gas mileage and plug colors that my bike seems to be enriched enough and recommended the Jagg fan assisted oil cooler over stock and also suggested the way around EPA restraints is a simple SERT with a 2 hours of dyno and installation time. They understand that will help a lot and will help to achieve performance and lasting of the engine. The service manager was on board with my initial install of full boar muffs and the FL-VIED's to help the bikes performance. Anyway I purchased a digital temp gauge and wanted to see what the oil temp actually was when the rear cylinder cut off as I understand that happens at a HT of 287degrees. The oil temp is 245degrees at that time. I don't feel that is life or death but am going to decide whether to do the total tune or the fan assist oil cooler. Any thoughts shared would be appreciated.
 
So I have been tinkering around with my SG's exhaust and a/c and fuel a bit and am ok for now there but have the rear cylinder cut-out at a light after about 10 seconds of idling. I have been researching cooling options passionately for the past week or so and got to talk to a couple folks this morning on a 250 mile ride. My home HD Dealer said that according to my gas mileage and plug colors that my bike seems to be enriched enough and recommended the Jagg fan assisted oil cooler over stock and also suggested the way around EPA restraints is a simple SERT with a 2 hours of dyno and installation time. They understand that will help a lot and will help to achieve performance and lasting of the engine. The service manager was on board with my initial install of full boar muffs and the FL-VIED's to help the bikes performance. Anyway I purchased a digital temp gauge and wanted to see what the oil temp actually was when the rear cylinder cut off as I understand that happens at a HT of 287degrees. The oil temp is 245degrees at that time. I don't feel that is life or death but am going to decide whether to do the total tune or the fan assist oil cooler. Any thoughts shared would be appreciated.

At those temps what was the oil pressure? What oil are you running? As long as the bike is tuned cortectly, you use synthetic oil, and the oil pressure is around 29-30 you should have no worries. Here is info n Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 V-Twin. You can see that the temps are well within the parameters of the oil tolerances.

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I don't have a oil pressure gauge however I am running 20/50 synthetic oil. The bike seems exceptionally smooth and strong since 2" baffles and 65% dialed in on the FL-VIED's with no decel pops or bangs. I have 1800 miles on bike now and am leaning towards the 5k service at the dealer with the sert tune as well ? They are not afraid to do whats necessary to richen it up.
 
I don't have a oil pressure gauge however I am running 20/50 synthetic oil. The bike seems exceptionally smooth and strong since 2" baffles and 65% dialed in on the FL-VIED's with no decel pops or bangs. I have 1800 miles on bike now and am leaning towards the 5k service at the dealer with the sert tune as well ? They are not afraid to do whats necessary to richen it up.

You do have a oil pressure gauge. Push the information button. On the right controls next to the turn signal button.


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I will fire it up after I get done work tomorrow and check that out then. thanks for info. Rain is coming hard now here.
 
So the weather is being nice and I could open up garage and found the oil pressure gauge lol. I fired it up and it was at 37 psi oil pressure and after idling about 4 minutes it was just topping 145 degrees oil temp and down to 29psi oil pressure and at that time the EITMS killed the rear cylinder. (seems hard to believe that CHT was already that high ? ) So I twisted the throttle and disabled that feature. I let it idle for another 2 minutes and the oil temp was creeping over 160degrees and the oil pressure was down at 21psi but when I quick revved to 2500 rpm's it went to the upper 30's of oil pressure again.
 
Temps and pressure seem in the normal range. How are you reading oil temp? Engine temp and oil temp are different. You need to buy a real tuner and ditch that fooler.


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I bought an LED dipstick oil reading gauge today to get some grasp on what the oil temp is doing. My plugs are actually getting some dark gray on them on the edges and tip of arch and a lighter gray on rest. I did discuss the SERT and dyno being done at my 5k service.
 
cylinder head temp vs. oil temp

The problem with the SERT is every time you change something IE. Cams,heads,intake,exhaust you have to pay another $300 to the dealer for dyno time and the SERT is not cheep to begin with and that does not include the cables those are sold separately. Check out the FP3 And Power Vision. If you go one of those two routs it will save you about a grand


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So the weather is being nice and I could open up garage and found the oil pressure gauge lol. I fired it up and it was at 37 psi oil pressure and after idling about 4 minutes it was just topping 145 degrees oil temp and down to 29psi oil pressure and at that time the EITMS killed the rear cylinder. (seems hard to believe that CHT was already that high ? ) So I twisted the throttle and disabled that feature. I let it idle for another 2 minutes and the oil temp was creeping over 160degrees and the oil pressure was down at 21psi but when I quick revved to 2500 rpm's it went to the upper 30's of oil pressure again.


It all sounds normal to me. Why are you letting it idle. An air cooled engine will overheat if it's not dissipating heat from the cylinder cooling fins and in order to do that the bike has to be moving not just idling. The old Evos used to run around 200* -220* F. 2 Cammers run hotter. If your not having issues just ride your bike and and make sur the oil pressure is acceptable
 
Just in case you don't know, your EI TMS will kick on if the air temperature is 80° or over and the bike has been running for four minutes. So don't just rely on engine temperature for the rear cylinder going off.
 
The problem with the SERT is every time you change something IE. Cams,heads,intake,exhaust you have to pay another $300 to the dealer for dyno time and the SERT is not cheep to begin with and that does not include the cables those are sold separately. Check out the FP3 And Power Vision. If you go one of those two routs it will save you about a grand


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+1 on this and buy from Fuel Moto for maps for life... make changes you can get new maps, having probles send them a log and they will adjust your map.
 
I think you are totally worrying about nothing. Run that thing and forget the temps. I run Mobil 1 and as we all know, there are other great quality oils. We were out west a few weeks ago in Yellowstone and all around that area. For a few days it was over 100*. My oil temp was constantly at 260* and above. Ran it like I normally do. No issues. Look at how many folks live in the desert south west and ride the crap out of there bikes in high temps. I get your concern, but, l just don't think there is anything to worry about. If the rear cylinder cut out bothers you, turn it off.
 
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I appreciate all of your reality checks. It is just peace of mind stuff and what you all have wrote makes sense. When I was young and dumb and full of.... anyway , money wasn't a second thought or was running the dogcrap outa my bikes. Now at this point in life I just wanna cover the bases with this bike because the more I know, the more I don't wanna know lol. I did here positive things about the power vision. I haven't looked into fuel moto. With the little foolers in line the plugs look good and the bike runs very smooth and strong but I realize there are other parts to a great tune that are still needed. I just had it idling from cold start to check out the oil pressure/temp and to see how hot the oil was when the rear cylinder dropped. The temp in the garage was 88degrees f and zero air moving . Not air cooled conditions but just a test. Thanks again for all feedback and ride safe all !
 
well there are so many different tuners that I cant keep up with them all. I will research and really learn what is what so a real good tune will be the best choice for cooler and efficient I think Thanks
 
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Well the wife and I ran errands today on the SG. Went about 150 miles and it was 97 degrees with 105 heat index. Most of our ride was 50mph plus but near end got stuck in road work for about 5 minutes and then 15 more minutes of light to light crap. Feeling kinda pleased that the oil temp reached a max of 244. Highest it got :).. Thankfully it ran very nice. Hope all is well with all of you folks
 
I went thru Chicago, Gary and Milwaukee recently in rush hour traffic. Temp ran up to 295* a few times. Uncomfortable for sure at 0-5mph. Got back to running the slab and it came down to where it normally runs at 225* give or take. No worries.
 
I have never seen a Harley overheat, run some good oil, install deflectors if you have none and ride that bike.
 
I used to be into VW's. Being air cooled, oil temps are critical. Head temps and oil temps are both important to keep in check. You can cool the oil with lower head temps, but you cannot cool the heads with oil temps. If my oil hot 230°, I'm getting real concerned. I didn't run synthetic, so take this all with a grain of salt. I was dealing with a well tuned, but carbureted engine, not efi. Today's engine have the sensors and other do dads to keep things in check. I believe there comes a time where you have to trust the engineers that designed these engines and just ride them. Be smart with what you do to them, run good oils, and enjoy. I would like an oil temp sensor though. I'm always wondering what it is, but for now I watch the oil pressures. Pressures drop, we have a problem.
 


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