Anyone running stock decatted header with stock pipes with baffles cut out?

Antoneyo

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Jun 21, 2014
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So I sold my 4" Rinehart slip ons to a friend and in the mean time I put my stock pipes on just until I get my pro pipe. I wasn't happy with the soundless stock pipes so I cut the baffles out and WOW what a difference it made. With the baffles out the stock pipes sound way louder and way better than those Rineharts ever did. My Question is anyone running stock pipes w/o baffles and a stock header without the cat? I have access to one and want to know the pros and cons about that combo? If anything I would buy the v&h FP3 tuner and just call it a day if that setup won't hurt the bike plus it'll save me some money too...
Thanks guys.
 
So I sold my 4" Rinehart slip ons to a friend and in the mean time I put my stock pipes on just until I get my pro pipe. I wasn't happy with the soundless stock pipes so I cut the baffles out and WOW what a difference it made. With the baffles out the stock pipes sound way louder and way better than those Rineharts ever did. My Question is anyone running stock pipes w/o baffles and a stock header without the cat? I have access to one and want to know the pros and cons about that combo? If anything I would buy the v&h FP3 tuner and just call it a day if that setup won't hurt the bike plus it'll save me some money too...
Thanks guys.

Removing the cat out of the header will certainly alter the air:fuel ratio which not only can kill overall performance but also cause the bike to run lean (aka: hot) and overtime can cause the chrome on your exhaust system to discolor (the dreaded "blue hue" and/or "purple problem") simply because the chrome is getting too hot. Unfortunately since this discoloration is caused by a tuning issue and not a chrome defect, this would not be covered under an exhaust warranty.

Because of this, I'd highly recommend running some sort of fuel management system whether it be the V&H FP3 or another comparable tuner. You can probably get away with running the bike as is for a very short while but the longer you ride with the air:fuel ratio out of wack, the more risk there is of the chrome discoloring.

Hope this helps!

Lindsey :0)
 
Removing the cat out of the header will certainly alter the air:fuel ratio which not only can kill overall performance but also cause the bike to run lean (aka: hot) and overtime can cause the chrome on your exhaust system to discolor (the dreaded "blue hue" and/or "purple problem") simply because the chrome is getting too hot. Unfortunately since this discoloration is caused by a tuning issue and not a chrome defect, this would not be covered under an exhaust warranty.

Because of this, I'd highly recommend running some sort of fuel management system whether it be the V&H FP3 or another comparable tuner. You can probably get away with running the bike as is for a very short while but the longer you ride with the air:fuel ratio out of wack, the more risk there is of the chrome discoloring.

Hope this helps!

Lindsey :0)
Lindsey,
Definitely going to purchase a fp3 tuner.

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You may want to add some lolly pops in the end of your pipes for some back pressure.ImageUploadedByTapatalk1437779808.962184.jpg


2014 FLHXS
 
I just installed a de-catted stock head pipe today with stock mufflers. See my post in intake and exhaust section with videos before and after.

It's my understanding that as long as you don't mess with the intake/air filter, a tuner shouldn't be needed. The air/fuel ratio coming into the combustion chamber hasn't changed, no matter how much you flow air out the back(within reason) ..... it still has to come in from the front.... and the air/fuel ratio is mixed per HD specs up front before going into the engine.

With no baffles in the mufflers, the exhaust flow might increase marginally, but the incoming charge of air is still mixed to HD specs (kinda lean) ....regardless of flow going out (within reason). As long as it doesn't overcome the specs HD has programed in for the intake charge, no tuner is needed.
It's my understanding, simple exhaust mods won't exceed these stock specs, without combined intake changes.
If you have extensive engine mods (cams, intake, turbo, supercharger, head mods, larger valves, etc) where you might exceed the preset intake charge specs, a tuner would be needed.
.

Now, the factory a/f ratio is kinda lean, they say, so a tuner might be a good idea to richen up the a/f ratio and help cool the engine and prohibit bluing.... at a slight mpg cost.

With completely open baffles in the mufflers, you present a different problem.
All street engines (unless full-on drag racing where wide open throttle is needed all the time), require some backpressure. It improves low end torque for rideability . The huge decrease in backpressure causes the exhaust gases to not escape as designed, and you will experience some popping on deceleration. I can't explain it perfectly because I don't understand it thoroughly ..... but in a nutshell, raw fuel is sucked out of the intake charge during the exhaust cycle and it burns in the pipe or head due to the hot valves or other hot surfaces it encounters on deceleration.
I'll have to google that........

As stated above, some backpressure will be beneficial . Google it.

EDIT: Just copied and pasted from another forum about popping on decel. Some highlighted items to better explain.

...........This is exactly correct! If you think about the mechanics of what is going on upon decel, it makes perfect sense:
You start out with an engine that is turning high RPM with a carb that is open, flowing freely. Next, you close that slide. This has the effect of creating a tremendous vaccuum in the intake manifold (CHOKE!). This vaccuum does curious things:
1. It pulls air and fuel from wherever it can--including the idle and low speed jetting in the carb.
2. To counteract the vaccuum, air will take the path of least resistance--including sucking exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap (the brief period of time that the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time.

So what does this mean? Well, now you have a disproportionate rich mixture heading for the cylinder AND what little oxygen is drawn in is further diluted by gases that are coming back into the chamber from the exhaust valve. The result is poor, incomplete combustion! Depending on the temperature of the exhaust pipe and gases, reignition is possible once this mixture is introduced into a more oxygen rich environment. This produces the "pop."

Why does a lean running engine have a tendency to excessively pop? The exhaust gas temperature of a lean engine is substantially higher than one that is running on the rich side ( an EGT probe will show this). Therefore, the high EGT serves to heat the pipe more and the gases themselves become a much better source of re-ignition. By richening things up, you are cooling down the exhaust temp and therefore reducing potential re-ignition sources.

Any 4 stroke engine--even those that are flawlessly tuned will pop on decel. It is harmless, but can be annoying--granted. However, I would never alter the jetting of an otherwise performing motorcycle to get rid of it. Go by the seat of your pants and the color of your spark plug rather than the popping as an indication of the jetting of your scoot!
 
Last edited:
Here's a shot of the new mufflers I just installed today. B&E Performance Max 2. --- which are recored/baffled stock mufflers.
Not baffle less...... but opened up quite a bit over stock.
Rode great today.max 2 mufflers.jpg
 
I just installed a de-catted stock head pipe today with stock mufflers. See my post in intake and exhaust section with videos before and after.

It's my understanding that as long as you don't mess with the intake/air filter, a tuner shouldn't be needed. The air/fuel ratio coming into the combustion chamber hasn't changed, no matter how much you flow air out the back(within reason) ..... it still has to come in from the front.... and the air/fuel ratio is mixed per HD specs up front before going into the engine.

With no baffles in the mufflers, the exhaust flow might increase marginally, but the incoming charge of air is still mixed to HD specs (kinda lean) ....regardless of flow going out (within reason). As long as it doesn't overcome the specs HD has programed in for the intake charge, no tuner is needed.
It's my understanding, simple exhaust mods won't exceed these stock specs, without combined intake changes.
If you have extensive engine mods (cams, intake, turbo, supercharger, head mods, larger valves, etc) where you might exceed the preset intake charge specs, a tuner would be needed.
.

Now, the factory a/f ratio is kinda lean, they say, so a tuner might be a good idea to richen up the a/f ratio and help cool the engine and prohibit bluing.... at a slight mpg cost.

With completely open baffles in the mufflers, you present a different problem.
All street engines (unless full-on drag racing where wide open throttle is needed all the time), require some backpressure. It improves low end torque for rideability . The huge decrease in backpressure causes the exhaust gases to not escape as designed, and you will experience some popping on deceleration. I can't explain it perfectly because I don't understand it thoroughly ..... but in a nutshell, raw fuel is sucked out of the intake charge during the exhaust cycle and it burns in the pipe or head due to the hot valves or other hot surfaces it encounters on deceleration.
I'll have to google that........

As stated above, some backpressure will be beneficial . Google it.

EDIT: Just copied and pasted from another forum about popping on decel. Some highlighted items to better explain.

...........This is exactly correct! If you think about the mechanics of what is going on upon decel, it makes perfect sense:
You start out with an engine that is turning high RPM with a carb that is open, flowing freely. Next, you close that slide. This has the effect of creating a tremendous vaccuum in the intake manifold (CHOKE!). This vaccuum does curious things:
1. It pulls air and fuel from wherever it can--including the idle and low speed jetting in the carb.
2. To counteract the vaccuum, air will take the path of least resistance--including sucking exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber during valve overlap (the brief period of time that the exhaust and intake valves are open at the same time.

So what does this mean? Well, now you have a disproportionate rich mixture heading for the cylinder AND what little oxygen is drawn in is further diluted by gases that are coming back into the chamber from the exhaust valve. The result is poor, incomplete combustion! Depending on the temperature of the exhaust pipe and gases, reignition is possible once this mixture is introduced into a more oxygen rich environment. This produces the "pop."

Why does a lean running engine have a tendency to excessively pop? The exhaust gas temperature of a lean engine is substantially higher than one that is running on the rich side ( an EGT probe will show this). Therefore, the high EGT serves to heat the pipe more and the gases themselves become a much better source of re-ignition. By richening things up, you are cooling down the exhaust temp and therefore reducing potential re-ignition sources.

Any 4 stroke engine--even those that are flawlessly tuned will pop on decel. It is harmless, but can be annoying--granted. However, I would never alter the jetting of an otherwise performing motorcycle to get rid of it. Go by the seat of your pants and the color of your spark plug rather than the popping as an indication of the jetting of your scoot!



Great info,
Right now I have the S.E. stage 1 intake on it stock header and took the baffles out of the stock pipes but there is still the factory fiberglass packing on the inside of them, granted its only a thin layer of packing but its there. Right now I have no problems with the functioning of the bike, it runs great. I think I will put the catless header on with I get my fp3 tuner.
 
I just took my cat apart today. cut a window out, and removed the contents. tig welded the window back in reassembled and did a test ride and it is cooler and runs fine. I have CVO street glide mufflers with stock air intake and cleaner. 2" fulsac performance baffles being installed next weekend. then we will see if it needs air intake and dyno. so far so good and no heat issues.. this on my 2015 street glide.
 
I just took my cat apart today. cut a window out, and removed the contents. tig welded the window back in reassembled and did a test ride and it is cooler and runs fine. I have CVO street glide mufflers with stock air intake and cleaner. 2" fulsac performance baffles being installed next weekend. then we will see if it needs air intake and dyno. so far so good and no heat issues.. this on my 2015 street glide.

Can you post some pics? I have an '09, and trying to see exactly where to cut. Or has this been posted already?


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cat gutting

cat gutting

Can you post some pics? I have an '09, and trying to see exactly where to cut. Or has this been posted already?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the cat on my 2015 SG is located just forward of the two o2 sensors. Its about 9 to 10 inch area. the cat is between the o2 sensors and the area were the pipe goes from one to two outlets.. look it up in google under remove cate on 2015 street glide or something like that . one guy shows a video with the window per say removed. its about a 2 plus hour job. getting the cat **** out is the hardest part but well worth it.
 
the cat on my 2015 SG is located just forward of the two o2 sensors. Its about 9 to 10 inch area. the cat is between the o2 sensors and the area were the pipe goes from one to two outlets.. look it up in google under remove cate on 2015 street glide or something like that . one guy shows a video with the window per say removed. its about a 2 plus hour job. getting the cat **** out is the hardest part but well worth it.

I just used a long prybar and a big hammer...took about an hour. I run stock intake and H-D Street Cannons and have a bit of decel pop, which I think sounds cool. I talked with the dealer and he told me its perfectly normal to have a little decel pop and that unless you upgrade the intake, not to worry about a tune. I've been running it like this for about 15k miles and my pipes aren't blue yet....just sayin'.....
 
Can you post some pics? I have an '09, and trying to see exactly where to cut. Or has this been posted already?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I remember correctly, '09s have the cat in the muffler itself.... not in the head pipe.
 


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