2015 SGS Stage 4 cam choice

[schoeney]

Hey All!

I have a 2015 SGS with a Stage 4 kit. I also have the V&H power duals head pipe and oversized 450 slip-ons. It has made some impressive numbers 112hp/114tq. My issue is, its a dog down low. I have to rev the motor pretty good at take off or it sputters. Any suggestions on a cam that would bring the hp/tq down in the "tooling around range". I'd like to see most of my power in the 1500-3500 range. Thanks for any input.

 

[Crumb]

2015 SGS Stage 4 cam choice

Woods 222, 555, Andrews 48h, tman555 tourqster are all good choices. There is many more as well.

 

[schoeney]

And there comes the struggle... I know I will likely loose some power... I'm hoping to find someone with the same issue I have... That may have made a change that they were happy with, instead of 5 choices and a good luck! No disrespect Crumb. I'm just would like a more definitive answer 222's or 555's, etc...

 

[incognado]

Don't get hung up on the HP figure. It's just a derived number from the measured torque & RPM anyway. Think about the torque curve a particular cam delivers, where it peaks etc. The lower the torque starts to come on the more grunt your bike will feel like it has when you ride it, even if it makes less horsepower. Crumb has the right idea. I've been told the S&S MR103 is also not bad, otherwise any of the Woods, TMAN or Andrews Torque cams would be good unless your stage 4 is too high compression for them - then I'm not too sure. The build really needs to be a complete package - CR to match the cam profile to deliver the torque curve you're after. Have a chat with the guy who did your stage 4 maybe also?

 

[streetsurfer]

I run the tts t-100,V&H power duals and high output mufflers,SE airfilter kit,94Hp,114Tq , tts tuner with Dyno,I ride in the range of rpms you are wanting works great,no head or piston work done on bike. Pulls hard on bottom tire burner rarely ever shift over 4,000 rpm

 

[pappabear]

Don't get hung up on the HP figure. It's just a derived number from the measured torque & RPM anyway. Think about the torque curve a particular cam delivers, where it peaks etc. The lower the torque starts to come on the more grunt your bike will feel like it has when you ride it, even if it makes less horsepower. Crumb has the right idea. I've been told the S&S MR103 is also not bad, otherwise any of the Woods, TMAN or Andrews Torque cams would be good unless your stage 4 is too high compression for them - then I'm not too sure. The build really needs to be a complete package - CR to match the cam profile to deliver the torque curve you're after. Have a chat with the guy who did your stage 4 maybe also?

Plus 1 one the gentleman from down under️️

 

[RonWa]

Put in the quite baffles, they will give you more low end toque.
With out a cat they don't have enough back pressure.

 

[14 FLHX]

I have wood 222, I'm happy.

 

[Bstreetglide]

I too was thinking about cracking open my engine. Does the 110 kit and the stage 4 HD puts in 259 cams? Is that per HD. Or what works best for the upgrade

 

[schoeney]

Will that mess the ecm and require a retune Ronwa?

 

[schoeney]

I too was thinking about cracking open my engine. Does the 110 kit and the stage 4 HD puts in 259 cams? Is that per HD. Or what works best for the upgrade

I have the 103 stage 4. This comes with the 259 cam, not sure what the 110 comes with

 

[Mandrew]

Stock 110 CVO comes with 255. The 110 tire shredder kit comes with 259, I think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KnuckleDragger]

I'm new to the forum. I might be in the wrong thread but I just a couple questions. I bought a 2010 SG a few months ago. It has a bunch of work done to the motor. Problem is, I don't know exactly what cams, etc are in it. It's a 96 and as far as I know, the bottom end is stock. Has cams, head work, d & d fat cat and a tune. Dyno sheets in have in my hand show 111HP and 108TQ, which was done at our local HD shop the day I bought it. Does that sound right? Anyway, bike runs great. Only issue is a hesitation at low rpm. I understand it's not gonna make much down low, but I mean, once it's warmed up you almost have to rev about 2,000 just to get it moving or else it will miss. Is that something in the tune, or would the wrapped baffle help with that? Or am I looking at having to swap cams? My wife rides with me a lot. I ride a lot of curvy, hilly areas, so rpm stays good enough not to worry about low end too much. That hesitation is just annoying sometimes. I appreciate any suggestions or advice.

 

[Mandrew]

Can you share the dyno sheet with us? The lines may help answer your question.

 

[KnuckleDragger]

I'll try to load a picture of it. Not extremely tech savvy.

 

[KnuckleDragger]

Dyno

Dyno

I'm sure this won't work. I attached an image from my iPad.

I'll see what I can do on the computer later.
Anyway, torque peaks at 4200 and HP climbs all the way to the rev limiter. Looks pretty consistent all the way across. Then again, I've never read a Dyno sheet either.

 

[Mandrew]

Your torque line is off, but it looks similar to what I've seen on other D&D tunes.
You want the torque to climb rapidly (almost vertical before 2000 rpm) and then get kinda smooth and flat- almost like a little round top. HP should be smooth and climb steadily across Rpm until you reach max power; then it flattens out a bit.
Instead of changing your cams, consider changing the baffles in your exhaust. A different baffle could make the pipe cooperate more with the engine work. Then, tune the bike (diy or with dyno).

I know someone else on the forum worked through D&D tune earlier this year- check the search to see if you can find more on what that rider did.

 

[Crumb]

I have a d&d and it runs fantastic, they almost always produce good torque down low, that's what a 2-1 pipe does. I would lean toward a cam change and a GOOD tune.