2007 streetglide baffle removal

firefighter3314

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Mar 22, 2014
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Hey guys n gals
I'm looking to pull the baffles out of my stock exhaust and need pointers or tips on how to do so. As well the Harley dealer is telling me if I do this I will need to replace the air breather and have the bike reprogrammed on their computer. Is there any truth to this and will it hurt anything to just remove the baffles and leave the rest of the bike stock as is?


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I'm looking at buying a stock pipe with the cat. Cut out. Or buy Vansen& Hines Header pipe with cfr slip on any ideas which way to go. For my 2014. Also thinking to install new v&h fuel pack.
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Any help. I really want to do this right one time. And not have to wore down the road.


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Jones- They're on Ebay quite often and there is a company that you can either buy theirs or have them remove yours. Sorry but I can't think of the name right now. Google "Harley Cat Removal for more info on it, people who have done it and results. Several I know of have done it themselves and say its a real job to do it right and . . .you have to have certain tools.
 
There is really no problem with the stock head-pipe and cat-converter. It is probably the best from a driveability point of view. I would only recommend removing the cat for an engine build for all out horsepower or if you want the loud bark of straight through pipes.

As I've noticed and said before, many people with really loud pipes drive slowly to avoid making too much noise or attracting unwanted attention (police).
 
Mojo is right... you can't compete with a stock de-cat against a true header . If you want performance... 2-1 is the way to go... if you want the look and performance of duals you have your choice of true duals or the V/H Power dual X pipe.
 
Mojo is right... you can't compete with a stock de-cat against a true header . If you want performance... 2-1 is the way to go... if you want the look and performance of duals you have your choice of true duals or the V/H Power dual X pipe.

Spazz- Check your Notifications for 2 PM's from me-Mojo
 
Thanks for the videos. Still curious if the air breather and computer hook up at the dealership is necessary or not?


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The dealer download is just a modified map to richen up the AFR so you don't run leaner than they already do. The only true way to adjust all parameters is a tuner- hands down.

Now.. the download will cost you around $150 and yes... stays in warranty... but there is 5% chance that you will run perfect. I did the download on my 2013 Breakout since I went Stage 1 at 3 miles on the clock. It ran super rich ( black smoke ).. still better than lean and had a flat spot and a little decel popping. The tuner made a world of difference at 1000 miles with a dyno ( $499 tuner and $300 dyno) The sled came to life in every aspect.

An alternative to richening up the AFR ( Air/Fuel Ratio) is the FL-VIED-10 for $129 from NightRider. I am running it now with slip-ons and stock headpipe and stock AC. Just picked up from the 1000 miles service yesterday and said it was running just fine... they knew I installed the FL-VIED-10. I have no decel popping at all and there is a little flat spot in the curve around 3200 rpms, but I can live with it for now.

The FL-VIED-10 plugs in between the O2's and BCM to allow you to 'trick' the BCM into richening up the mixture. It gives you from 0%-6% control ( 14:6 AFR stock ratio to 14:0 ). On the unit, it goes from 0%-100%... I run at 50% and that gives me 14:3 AFR for just a little added richening for my decrease in back pressure from the slip-ons.

Best thing is... you can't recoup any money from the download... the FL-VIED-10 can be removed once you get a tuner and resell it. Look into it.....
 
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I also went with the FL-VIED-10, i have done tons of reading an research and lots of great comments about these. I dont plan on going past stage 1 so these FL-VIED-10 should work great for the price.

Now if this weather would realize its spring, that would be nice, It 12 degrees right now. this sucks.
 


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