14" Paul Yaffe Monkey Bagger Bars

Spazz,
The issue I was told was that the aftermarket and non OEM HD bushings are taller and the bars make contact with the fairing because they are pushed up. I have a set of HD aftermarket bushings. Looks like I may have to stay stock.
They are a bit taller...and a lot stiffer. You can shave them down as well... being taller. .. the bolts barely get 5-6 threads to grab...

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I did go back and install the poly bushings which made a huge difference in bar movement. I had to buy longer bolts. I bought longer grade 8 bolts and had to cut about 1/4" off the threads. It installed fine and plenty of clearance.
 
I did go back and install the poly bushings which made a huge difference in bar movement. I had to buy longer bolts. I bought longer grade 8 bolts and had to cut about 1/4" off the threads. It installed fine and plenty of clearance.

What diameter are your bars outside the knurled section?
 
I hate "oh chit" moments in the middle of a project so I tend to gather more info than I need.
I appreciate all the help. Hopefully, when I'm done with mine I can pass along something to help another.
 
I hate "oh chit" moments in the middle of a project so I tend to gather more info than I need.
I appreciate all the help. Hopefully, when I'm done with mine I can pass along something to help another.
Completely understandable and warranted

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I feel you. I was all worried about doing the bars, Spazz knows a ton and he help me a lot before I went for it and it was suprisingly easier than I thought.
 
OK guys, I'm in the middle of my bar install and have a few questions.
Still trying to figure out where to go with the clutch hose. I have it routed as pictured on page 2. Now, is the hose still routed from the right side on top of the trees, in front of the risers? If that's the case, I get a lot of hose pulling when turning.
My inner fairing also hits the top of bars as they come out of the clamp. A dremel will fix that. The HD urethane bushings are definitely thicker and the friggin bolts they sent with the kit were a 1/4" too short. Had to run to the hardware store for those. The brake hose seems long enough for my WO577 12.5" Chubby bars, but still need to check that routing also. You guys are getting full turning without your hoses being pulled?
 
Yes. I disconnected a lot of the wires behind the fairing and ran the clutch line under them in order to gain the most length. Once I ran the line I was able to get enough slack to turn the bars with no pulling of the lines. You can also pull a little extra slack out of the clutch cable coming from the clutch side itself not the lever side. You can gain about 1-2" extra.
 
I have enough slack, but its close. I'm done for the night. Will head out in the morning with a fresh cup of coffee and look at the routing again. I am really not wanting to change any hoses out and may have to get a little creative.
Thanks, JP.
 
You shouldn't have to change any... you have 12's and Jon had 14's.... recheck your routing to ensure you have optimal routing for most slack

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I did... last thing I did to tidy it up a bit....

Now... did you LOOSEN the banjos just enuf to orient the hyd lines? ONLY ENUF TO MOVE IT WITH NO FLUID LEAKING...... this way no bleed is necessary.
 
Yup, banjos are good to go. Still routing. Clearanced inner for bars. Onto wire and line routing.
 
How wide are those 14s tip to tip? I'm at about 37". Just don't see how the hell you got 14" bars with stock clutch line. I'm at the max. Brake is OK. I'll run it and see. I can get a full turn, though.
 
My 12's are about that.. Jon will have to measure his 14,s

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