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Rinehart slip ons, thought they would be louder

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ElMattador

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Nov 1, 2016
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1st post!!

Recently installed a new pair of Rinehart slip-ons.
Thank you Lindsey! at http:/www.ironacesspeedshop.com

factory exhaust w/cat conv.
Sounds good, was thinking it would be a bit louder.
I plan on getting a new header system eventually (D&D?)

A friend said I could remove the baffles from the slip-ons?
Do they even have removable baffles?
Is that bad? (less back pressure, waves, etc.)
 
By changing your head pipe it will change the exhaust note a bit also the slip ones will go through a "break in" process. Research before buying a head pipe. I run a Fullsac DX and am very happy with it especially since I changed out the Screaming Eagle exhaust to the Bassani DNT it's a whole different animal.
 
I have a friend bought a 2016 SGS with Rinehart's and comparing it with my V & H's, mines louder. They both sound good but mines still louder. I saw a video recently of someone removing the packing from the Rinehart's. If my memory serves me right, you remove the two screws holding the cap on, remove the cap, then the baffle. After the baffle is out, you can reach inside and remove the packing. It is in a wrap form and comes out in one piece. With the packing removed, I thought the pipes didn't have that deep throaty rumble as it did before....but it wasn't any louder. Good luck with your project....
 
ElMattador said:
1st post!!

Recently installed a new pair of Rinehart slip-ons.
Thank you Lindsey! at http:/www.ironacesspeedshop.com

factory exhaust w/cat conv.
Sounds good, was thinking it would be a bit louder.
I plan on getting a new header system eventually (D&D?)

A friend said I could remove the baffles from the slip-ons?
Do they even have removable baffles?
Is that bad? (less back pressure, waves, etc.)
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for the shoutout @ElMattador...it means a lot to us!!

As for the sound, if you were to either remove the cat out of your OE header or get an aftermarket header such as a V&H Dresser Dual or something similar that does not have a cat you will get the louder exhaust note you are after. It's pretty remarkable just how much the cat "muffles" down the exhaust note....I'd definitely encourage you to go this route over removing the baffles since the baffles are design to provide the solid performance that the Rinehart's are known to deliver.

Hope this helps!!

Lindsey :0)
 
You're welcome Lindsey!
I sorta thought that was the case, when I'm ready to complete the exhaust I will be calling you!
 
I've got a full rinehart exhaust on my 08 2" head pipe with 3.5" mufflers. It's pretty loud!!!!
Sounds like you need to put some good head pipes on and it will open it up for you!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have the 4 inchers on with a de-cat-ed stock header and sometimes it's too loud. I really notice it on long rides.
 
It's been my experience that rinehart's are deep and throaty more than loud which is the sound I prefer.
 
How hard was the De-cat job?

How hard was the De-cat job?

RuknRole said:
I have the 4 inchers on with a de-cat-ed stock header and sometimes it's too loud. I really notice it on long rides.
Click to expand...

How hard was the De cat job?
I'm eventually going to put headers on, wondering is it worth the labor to take the pipes off twice?
 
ElMattador said:
How hard was the De cat job?
I'm eventually going to put headers on, wondering is it worth the labor to take the pipes off twice?
Click to expand...

I watched my buddy remove the cat from the stock header on my brother's 2017 CVO SG. He drew a horizontal mark with a sharpie on the cat and cut it in half with a chop saw. Next he used a drill with a 1" drill bit and drilled three holes through each half of the cat and they came right out. To finish things up, he lined up both halves of the pipe using the sharpie mark that he made earlier and then tig welded it back together. He did say that mig welding would have also been acceptable. Here's a few pics what it looked like afterwards and a video clip of how it sounds. Hope this helps.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AGJnD_D2mzo
 

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ElMattador said:
How hard was the De cat job?
I'm eventually going to put headers on, wondering is it worth the labor to take the pipes off twice?
Click to expand...
It was done by the dealer. I had it put on with the slip-ons and had the scoot dyno tuned before it left the dealer.
 
ElMattador said:
How hard was the De cat job?
I'm eventually going to put headers on, wondering is it worth the labor to take the pipes off twice?
Click to expand...
The de cat was easy the whole thing took me less than 3 hours and I work slow. Once the mufflers were off, the actual drilling out of the cat only took 25 minutes. DO NOT FOLLOW the you tube video. The dummy uses a 1.5" inch spade bit. Use at least a 1.75" inch or bigger bit. I used a hammer drill but a regular drill will work just a little slower. You will either need a 16" long spade bit or a bit extension (if you use an extension, make sure the bit is locked good in the extension you don't want it popping out inside your pipes). The bike will get louder just by removing the cat and you wont have as much heat build up down by your right foot/ankle. Beware if you are running an FP3 the auto tune will no longer work. Good luck ;0)
 
Last edited:
Chris gibson said:
Why won't fp3 autotune work with de-cated head pipe? Chris
Click to expand...

Well if I understand it right (if being the key word here) with the cat out the O2 sensors can now "see each other" and so they wind up getting mixed signals or "cross talk". You might want to contact V&H for better info. There is a post here somewhere on it. Ok update I found the post. search for "De cat" post number 24. The dude called V&H twice and got the same info both times. Removing the cat allows cross talk between the O2 sensors rendering their data unusable. I don't know if that applies to all header pipes or only the factory ones.

Aloha....Mike
 
Last edited:
From V&H

In most cases we have found that it does not work. Reason being, the O2 sensors feed into where the catalyst used to be and are now sitting in an open area. This leaves them unable to distinguish whether they are reading from the front/rear cylinder. We have seen our customers finished Autotune maps where the map ends up at either maximum rich or maximum lean because the sensor was reading lean or rich incorrectly. I have admittedly seen cases where someone got a quality Autotune, but the number of unsuccessful attempts far outweigh the successful ones.

I replied back asking if there are any aftermarket headers that will work and also about the possibility of relocating the sensors. Will post the response. Too bad we cant disconnect one sensor and just map one cylinder at a time ;0(
 
Got a follow up email from V&H

Mike,

Any aftermarket header that moves the O2 bungs up and has them properly immersed into the exhaust stream will be effective. Including our Dresser Duals and Power Duals head pipes.*

Thank you,

Cheyne McNab / Fuelpak / Customer Service / New Accounts
 
Sirrat007 said:
Got a follow up email from V&H

Mike,

Any aftermarket header that moves the O2 bungs up and has them properly immersed into the exhaust stream will be effective. Including our Dresser Duals and Power Duals head pipes.*

Thank you,

Cheyne McNab / Fuelpak / Customer Service / New Accounts
Click to expand...

Hmmmm....back to the drawing board. I was thinking my next project would be to get an FP3....
 
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