Ok, this looks like the thread I want. 2015 FLHXS with Rinehart 4” Black Slip-ons, PN 500-0103. 3,500 miles on bike. Took the leap and just ordered the Vance & Hines Power Duals (Black), and Arlen Ness Big Sucker Stage I Air Filter, PN 18-442 (retaining the OEM cover). Not sure if I am going to have my indy tune with the Power Vision ($300), or get an FP-3 ($340). I plan on installing the headers myself and have been doing A LOT of research and some of the things I am reading conflict. I do have a service manual (bought it before getting the bike), and I do have a couple of concerns.
• Exhaust Gaskets- The V&H comes with V&H gaskets. When you pull the OEM header, do the existing gaskets fall out or are they sort of stuck in the ports? I just read
earlier in this thread about leaving in the existing gaskets???
o Question- Do I: 1) retain and use the existing gaskets- if they remain in place, 2) use the V&H gaskets that come with the header, or 3) purchase new HD SE
gaskets (PN 65324-83B)?
• I have read conflicting reviews about re-torqueing bolts. My plan was to install the header then ride a few miles to heat the system to regular operating temp. I
test fitted the head bolts to make sure I had the correct tools (1/4” drive w/wobble extensions), and the shields will have to be off for the test ride period to be
able to reach the bolts for re- torque.
o Question- Do I: 1) re-torque bolts when engine is hot, or, 2) re-torque bolts when engine has sufficiently cooled?
• I have read and reviewed the V&H install instructions and the HD service manual instructions for the exhaust header bolts- (bottom nut to 9-18 in lbs, top nut
to 100-120 in lbs, top nut final torque to 100-120 in lbs). Seems that the nuts aren’t on very tight. I’m going to have to get an in-lbs torque wrench and
most that I have seen start at 20 in lb. My understanding and it would seem to reason that the sequencing and torque on these bolts is mission critical. Any
help/insighttips/tricks on this??? I did see a good piece that I will use: putting some chrome acorn nuts on the remaining stud lengths after final torqueing to
keep the flange bolts from backing out.
• Question- Do I: Bite the bullet and pay my indy $250 to do the header install and- avoid all of the challenges and pitfalls of learning more about my machine,
and, take the wrath from my wife of more $$$ spent on a new bike (she doesn’t want to hear words like ‘performance’ or ‘personalization’), and, spending the
money I was going to use to get the matching pinstripes on my Tour-Pak?
Like everybody else, I’m trying to save a buck and actually enjoy the wrenching- if successful. I’d hate to get this all put together only to hear the dreaded ‘sucking sound’ of and exhaust leak, or be in the middle of the install and screw something up (gaskets). BTW, I live in California- where the politicians want everyone to be on an electronic Vespa! I had to sign a waiver saying that I was going to use the header on a closed race course only. HD shops won’t have anything to do with install/tuning of cat- free headers. I tried ordering them when I ordered my bike.
