air intake?
- Thread starter FLHXn319
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no need for a dyno if you purchase a Thunder Max Auto tuner. It continues to tune the bike as you ride. Its been the best thing I have added to my bike besides the heated hand grips. Yes you will pay for the Max..about 950.00 bucks but if you think about the cost of a dyno at 300-400 bucks it pays for its self pretty much the first year. Just remember you get what you pay for.
Pic your dyno guy first then have him tell you what tuner he likes to work with, if you go that way. As you know there are many auto tuning and self tuning systems out there, pic what fits for you. Just remember if you chose a Harley tuner all Harley shops will work on your bike if you ever have trouble, other tuners can be a crap shoot if certain dealers will even touch them. In the end chose what you want, and think is right for you.
View attachment GlideLife Dyno Chart.pdf
I absolutely agree with Crumb. Make sure you get something that an H-D dealer can deal with, but, I did what Crumb says. I asked My Dyno guy (One of the best in the biz... Trains H-D Techs on dynamometer operation) which particular tuner HE WOULD SUGGEST... He said I could get whatever I wanted except the ThunderMax, as the TM actually replaces the H-D factory DELPHI ECM (Excellent-PROVEN ECM). Doc strongly "suggested" the TTS Mastertune 2. He said it's the one he gets the best results from... and that he could easily bring out power & torque in the RPM range I ride at the most (from about 2000 to 4500 RPM). Works w/ factory Delphi ECM. I found that from my "seat of pants" dyno, it pulls pretty hard from right above idle to about 5200. Dyno sheet says TQ is still over 100 to about 4300. My face wasn't big enough for my smile when I took her for a ride when Doc rolled her out of his Dyno Room.
I've only found one dealer that cannot work with the TTS Mastertune (because they didn't have the required cable). I just stopped by to "ask", as I always do, anytime I stop at a dealer while out riding... I have never had any issues whatsoever with my TTS. After the dyno session was done, nothing else stays with the bike. It's all in the factory ECM.
Once the OEM ECM is not there (as with the ThunderMax), you're SOL if you happen to have issues away from Home. *If I travel far from home, I carry my TTS unit, my cable and the flashdrive my Dyno guy gave me in a small zippered leather case in my left saddlebag. (The flashdrive contains my OEM tune & my dyno tune) The whole "just in case kit" is quite small
*You don't NEED a dynamometer tune with a TTS Mastertune (They offer a plethora of canned tunes), but a good dyno operator can definitely get the "MOST" out of it.
Ref. the T-Max, I, personally, still think getting 100 HP from a Stage One Upgrade(of any available bolt-on stage 1 performance parts) on a 103" Rushmore motor with "any" tuner is kinda' "amazing" at the very least. I'd love to see a dyno chart if one exists.
Mine is at the top.
By the way...
**Steve Cole, owner of TTS and designer/engineer of the TTS Mastertune, designed the SE Race Tuner (SERT) for the Motor Company. I'd tend to believe he probably knows a thing or two about H-D EFI & ECM's.
I absolutely agree with Crumb. Make sure you get something that an H-D dealer can deal with, but, I did what Crumb says. I asked My Dyno guy (One of the best in the biz... Trains H-D Techs on dynamometer operation) which particular tuner HE WOULD SUGGEST... He said I could get whatever I wanted except the ThunderMax, as the TM actually replaces the H-D factory DELPHI ECM (Excellent-PROVEN ECM). Doc strongly "suggested" the TTS Mastertune 2. He said it's the one he gets the best results from... and that he could easily bring out power & torque in the RPM range I ride at the most (from about 2000 to 4500 RPM). Works w/ factory Delphi ECM. I found that from my "seat of pants" dyno, it pulls pretty hard from right above idle to about 5200. Dyno sheet says TQ is still over 100 to about 4300. My face wasn't big enough for my smile when I took her for a ride when Doc rolled her out of his Dyno Room.
I've only found one dealer that cannot work with the TTS Mastertune (because they didn't have the required cable). I just stopped by to "ask", as I always do, anytime I stop at a dealer while out riding... I have never had any issues whatsoever with my TTS. After the dyno session was done, nothing else stays with the bike. It's all in the factory ECM.
Once the OEM ECM is not there (as with the ThunderMax), you're SOL if you happen to have issues away from Home. *If I travel far from home, I carry my TTS unit, my cable and the flashdrive my Dyno guy gave me in a small zippered leather case in my left saddlebag. (The flashdrive contains my OEM tune & my dyno tune) The whole "just in case kit" is quite small
*You don't NEED a dynamometer tune with a TTS Mastertune (They offer a plethora of canned tunes), but a good dyno operator can definitely get the "MOST" out of it.
Ref. the T-Max, I, personally, still think getting 100 HP from a Stage One Upgrade(of any available bolt-on stage 1 performance parts) on a 103" Rushmore motor with "any" tuner is kinda' "amazing" at the very least. I'd love to see a dyno chart if one exists.
Mine is at the top.
By the way...
**Steve Cole, owner of TTS and designer/engineer of the TTS Mastertune, designed the SE Race Tuner (SERT) for the Motor Company. I'd tend to believe he probably knows a thing or two about H-D EFI & ECM's.
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Sorry to Hijack the OP's thread but 1 question - Hulk, so the PV w/ TT is 1200.00 right, you need both?
Hey HULKSS,
I had strongly considered going with the Power Vision w/TT after checking it out per one of your earlier posts, but my new neighbor talked me out of it. Price, in my view, is quite outrageous. I only have $860 invested in my TTS 2 set-up, including 6 hrs of pro dyno time.
He had a few of 'em since they came out (purchased at wholesale thru his former employer) and recently went back to TTS Mastertune 2's on all 5 of his H-D's. He's running a 120R in his '14 Ultra, and a few others with 103's and a pretty "badd" 107" RoadGlide that he used to race in the Bagger Drag Race series.
I'm still pretty happy with my 12mm O2 sensors for now.
We ALL have our preferences for many reasons.
It's what keeps the blue marble rotating.
I had strongly considered going with the Power Vision w/TT after checking it out per one of your earlier posts, but my new neighbor talked me out of it. Price, in my view, is quite outrageous. I only have $860 invested in my TTS 2 set-up, including 6 hrs of pro dyno time.
He had a few of 'em since they came out (purchased at wholesale thru his former employer) and recently went back to TTS Mastertune 2's on all 5 of his H-D's. He's running a 120R in his '14 Ultra, and a few others with 103's and a pretty "badd" 107" RoadGlide that he used to race in the Bagger Drag Race series.
I'm still pretty happy with my 12mm O2 sensors for now.
We ALL have our preferences for many reasons.
It's what keeps the blue marble rotating.
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Good price, for sure.
But, for me, anyway, I'm just not convinced (with my current configuration - 103" & Stage 1) that I could get a better tune than I already have. The OEM 12MM heated O2 sensors are fine. I, personally will ALWAYS go with a DYNAMOMETER TUNE, no matter what engine config. I go with. Still "considering" the 120" (either R or ST) for 2017, but there's possibly a VERY NICE "#'s matching" '70 LS6 4 Spd 454 SS Chevelle in my future & all bets are off if that happens.