14" Paul Yaffe Monkey Bagger Bars

JonP

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Dec 12, 2014
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Just installed 14" Yaffes and used stock brake and clutch cables. I was able to reroute the cables with minimal effort, I also used 12" Namz wiring extensions. The 12" Namz allowed a little extra wiggle room when reconnecting the ends. I originally installed them with the OEM riser bushings. I bought Poly bushings but the stock bolt was not long enough due to the thicker bushings. After riding I felt the bars had too much play and installed the poly bushings and used grade 8 replacement bolts, this fixed the play in the bars. I just wanted to post this showing that it is entirely possible to put 14" bars without a cable replacement. Big thanks to SPAZZ for the suggestions and for stopping by to make sure I buttoned her up properly.
 
Always good to have someone like Spazz close by. I don't see many members close by here. But we do have a bunch of SG riders in the group I ride with.
 
Jon... Always glad to help out when I can... and I didn't have to do much.. lol!!! You did all the work... so ALL THE CREDIT goes to you

GREAT JOB!! They really fit you and your bike well!
 
Jon, where did you purchase your yaffe bars? I was looking at hills country customs for the whole shebang, but damn their expensive. They want 1200.00 for the bars,cables,chrome controls. Then they just started an add on of a 500.00 core charge for your old controllers. So about 1700 and that's before you even have them installed.but they want your old controllers sent to them, then they refund you your 500 bucks....... Dammmmmmn
 
I got them from phat performance parts. They seemed to be the best deal I could find. About $400 for the bars and extensions.
 
@Jonp, I will be doing this exact setup this weekend. Can you explain a little more about rerouting your cclutch and brake lines. Where and how. maybe a pic? Thanks
 
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I personally removed the whole fairing just so I could make room and see how I wanted to do the reroute. It's not necessary but makes life easier. I ran the clutch side from the frame into the forks on the right side then around to the left and it has just enough length to not bind at all. The brake side doesn't require much adjustment as there is plenty of cable. If you take the entire fairing off you will see what I mean and it will make more sense as to how the cables should go to make them reach. Let me know if any questions come up as you get going on it.
 
I personally removed the whole fairing just so I could make room and see how I wanted to do the reroute. It's not necessary but makes life easier. I ran the clutch side from the frame into the forks on the right side then around to the left and it has just enough length to not bind at all. The brake side doesn't require much adjustment as there is plenty of cable. If you take the entire fairing off you will see what I mean and it will make more sense as to how the cables should go to make them reach. Let me know if any questions come up as you get going on it.
Jon... you forgot about the connector we unplugged on the right side to get the hyd line right up against the triple to gain that extra inch or so... that made a world of difference... remeber?

Run the hyd line behind all the wiring and you are golden

Sent from Note4
 
good call, I forgot about that, I suggest taking the whole fairing off and run the hyd line so everything is out of the way
 
20150926_150439.jpg20150926_150450.jpg
forgot to take a pic when i was done, could have completed in an afternoon but upgraded the stereo while i was in there..Yes 14 in yaffe bars will fit with stock brake and clutch lines
 
JonP,
Can you snap a pic of the right side of the bike behind the forks by the neck with forks turned to the left? Might give me an idea where the clutch hose is headed. My bar job is coming up.
 
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Yes I'll do that. Bike is getting some recall work done so as soon as I pick it up I take some pics
 
Just to add to the pic with insight... notice the the clutch line is completely removed from the holder...AND fed UNDER all the wiring so it sits DIRECTLY against the neck. This gives you the MOST slack in the clutch line and doesn't even get tight at full lock... Jon and I checked several times.

Notice the brake line is also removed from the holder and brought up directly under the triple to the clamp where is routes up the bar.... plenty of room like this.

We NEVER undid the lines... just took off the levers to fish the res's down thru the triples to reroute... you will have to find the sweet spot turning the bars to fish the res thru just right...

Jon had mostly all the work done ( wires in the bars ready for install ) by the time I got there.. so my help was just the extra set of hands to aid in assembly.
 
JP & Spazz... Great stuff. Thanks Men!

May dig into my bars this week.

What bushings did you use? I bought the HD kit, but it looks like they might be too tall for my 1.25" bars and create fairing interference.
 
JP & Spazz... Great stuff. Thanks Men!

May dig into my bars this week.

What bushings did you use? I bought the HD kit, but it looks like they might be too tall for my 1.25" bars and create fairing interference.
Jon bought poly bushings and yes... too big for stock clamp bolts... we did revert back to stock, but he may have bought longer 1/2"x13 pitch bolts to go back to the poly ones....

Sent from Note4
 
Jon bought poly bushings and yes... too big for stock clamp bolts... we did revert back to stock, but he may have bought longer 1/2"x13 pitch bolts to go back to the poly ones....

Sent from Note4

Spazz,
The issue I was told was that the aftermarket and non OEM HD bushings are taller and the bars make contact with the fairing because they are pushed up. I have a set of HD aftermarket bushings. Looks like I may have to stay stock.
 


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